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We think installing our carbon tank is relatively basic. If you are somewhat mechanically inclined and have a little experience doing basic plumbing then you will have no issues. There are a lot of instructions here. Keep in mind that some of this material maybe foreign to some customers but that’s why we offer tech support 7 days a week to answer any questions you may have.

Whether you have purchased a 9” or 10” carbon tank the instructions are virtually the same. 

You will receive a mineral tank. The most popular sizes are 9”x40”, 10”x40” and 10”x54”. Along with the mineral tank comes a riser tube. The riser tube is to be placed in the center of the tank as there is a special groove for the tank to “sit” in. Leave the tube INSIDE the tank at all times.

Cover the riser tube (a sandwich baggie and a rubber band is a good idea).

Minerals: Pour in the gravel into the tank first (all of it) and then add the carbon. Carbon is black in color. Be sure to place the gravel down as the “bed” and then pour the carbon on top of the gravel. 

Do not get anything other than water into the riser tube. Once you have loaded the gravel and media, be sure to fill up the mineral tank with water before shutting the main water supply. When installing shut the main water line off and turn on all the faucets in the house to remove all the water from the pipes to make “sweating” the pipes easy, turn on cold-water faucets, and let them run. Once you are certain that there is no more air in your pipes then you can begin setting up your method of plumbing.

Screw on the control valve (head of unit). Before you screw it on turn it over and make sure the o-ring on the bottom of the control valve that seals the top of the tank with the control valve is still in place. Sometimes they fall into the box they came in. You should not throw any boxes or wrapping away until you are COMPLETELY finished with your installation. Then secure the plastic ring around the bottom of the valve by turning it counter clock wise onto the grooves on the valve. This outer ring locks the rubber tank O-ring in place.

When you screw on the control valve just get it "SNUG" don't "crank it down".

The bypass valve simply threads on to the back of the valve utilizing the NORYL plastic nuts provided for you. When placing the copper or PVC tail pieces be sure to follow the following steps:
Place the NORYL plastic nut in left hand with the threads facing you, then with your right hand drop the tail piece through the nut so that slim piece of the tail piece goes in first and the flanged end catches at the end of the NORYL plastic nut; finally place rubber gasket down the threads of the nut. Not placing the gasket last will cause a leak. If you place the tailpiece through the gasket and then drop in the NORYL plastic nut you will have a leak.
 

DRAIN LINE: Your drain line in most cases should be clear 1/2" inner diameter flexible plastic tubing that is available in almost all hardware stores. It is very inexpensive and requires no HARD ELBOWS. Try to never use hard 90 degree elbows on your drain line. If you simply must use 1 or 2 you may want to step up to a 3/4" drain or larger.

We provide you with a 90 degree elbow that goes between the inlet and outlet of your valve. Place the elbow in the threaded groove. Lubricate the line to prevent from tearing when placing on the elbow. Just as a tip, you can place a hose clamp on that elbow and around the hose for precautionary measures.

This backwashing drain line will be under pressure when the backwash cycle is working. Make sure the drain line is secured. The drain line will need to drain into a drain, which should be a minimum of 1 1/2" size.

NOTE: Never connect the drain line directly into a drain. Allow an air gap (if you make your own - it should have a minimum of 1" of air) between the drain line and waste line to prevent the possibility of siphoning.

Once plumbed in you are now ready to set the controls on the valve.

You must backwash the unit for about 20 minutes. Once the unit goes into backwash cycle unplug the unit. This will remove pulverized sediment from the media.

You can backwash the carbon up to 6 days a week but 3 days is the average that normally works for all of our customers, depending on the chlorine levels.

NOTE: In your manual it may say you need experience or training to install these units. However, they can be easily installed by any handy person. We have the experienced and trained technicians to guide you through the installation 7 days a week.

NOTE: If you have purchased a carbon tank in combination with a water softener you must offset the times of regeneration. You would just make the carbon, which is to be installed prior to the iron filter, regenerate prior to the water softener by making sure the regeneration setting is set to read 2 hours earlier than the water softener.