Check for existing or potential leaks and correct. Provide adequate working light.

Convenience should be the first consideration followed by a neat, no mess waterfall pattern into the sink. Try to avoid installing the faucet where it will be difficult to gain access from under the counter. The faucet can be installed from under the existing spray hose or other opening if this is convenient. If no existing holes can be used, it will be necessary to drill a hole at the desired location. Porcelain and ceramic sinks should be drilled with extreme care. A carbide masonry drill is recommended through the surface covering and a high-speed drill through the metal. It is helpful to use duct tape over the complete drilling area. If you need to retighten a connection or have a leak try using Teflon tape only. It this does not stop the leak then contact your distributor immediately.

A good location is on an accessible side or rear wall of the cabinet. Place where you can get at it for easy, trouble-free service, especially to replace the pre-filter and post-filter. The system can be installed in the basement.

NOTE: Due to the compactness and configuration of the RO unit, it can be easily disconnected and removed for service when there is no choice but to put it in tight quarters.

The supply saddle valve must be installed on a cold water line. Be sure water has been turned off to the line where the supply saddle valve is to be installed. The supply saddle valve is designed to fit onto ¼” through ½” copper pipe. Position supply saddle valve on pipe and tighten clamp screws. Turn knob clockwise to pierce pipe. Back out the knob all the way for maximum flow.  If flow is restricted, it may be necessary to drill out hole in pipe using a 1/8” drill bit.

Using the mount bracket as a template, mark the screw slot centers on the side at the desired location. Make sure the bracket is level when marking the holes.

D.   Mounting the purification unit.

   Locate the supply saddle valve where the RO supply tubing is connected into the sinks cold water pipe. Close the valve.

 Next, close the ball valve at the top of storage tank. Relieve the pressure in the unit by opening the RO faucet. NOTE: The water stored in the storage tank is under constant pressure. The ball valve must be turned off. Otherwise you will exhaust all RO water from the tank when you open the faucet before internal pressure is relieved. You need this water for Step 11 at the end of this procedure.

Step 2a: Move the main unit out from under sink for better accessibility.

There will be water in the filter housings, so be sure to place a shallow pan under the unit before loosening either filter housing to catch any water, which may spill.

Step 2b: If you are also replacing the RO membrane, see CHANGING THE RO MEMBRANE.

Step 3: Remove filter sumps. Unscrew each filter-housing sump by turning clock-wise looking down at the unit.

Use a filter spanner wrench, an oil filter wrench, a large pair of channel locks or your own hands.  Remember, the housings are screwed on tightly so they won’t leak therefore, some force may be needed to loosen them.

Step 4: Remove old filter cartridges and throw them away.

Step 5: Wash and sterilize filter sumps. Dump out any water in the sumps and wash them with soap and water.

Place a capful of hydrogen peroxide or bleach into each empty sump and then fill them with water. Set them aside for at least ten minutes to give them time to be sterilized.

Step 6: Wash your hands thoroughly before proceeding to step 7.

Step 7: Empty water from filter sumps and install new filters.

Do not rinse the filter sumps. Remove plastic protective wrapping from the new filters and place each filter into its respective housing. The carbon filter will fit in only one way.

Step 8: Note the condition of O-rings and lubricate.

Remove the “O” rings from the filter sumps. Wipe them clean and apply silicone grease. NOTE: Do not use petroleum jelly since this will dry out the O-rings and make them brittle.

Step 9: Reassemble filter housing.

NOTE: Which sump contains the sediment and carbon filter? right-hand (sediment) filter (facing unit). Re-install the other sump on the left-hand (carbon) filter. Tighten sumps snugly onto caps. This is for a 4 stage. On a 5 stage the order should be from right to left: Sediment filter, pre-carbon, and GAC filter.

Step 10: Open valve on supply line and check for leaks.

If there are no leaks, set RO unit into its originally installed position.

Step 11: Flush Ro system. Turn on the RO faucet and run water until storage tank is empty.

This flushing is necessary to remove carbon fines from the post-filter that may be present due to the manufacturing process. The water may look somewhat dark- perhaps even black. Do not be alarmed. Continue flushing until tank is empty. Allow several hours for the storage tank to re-fill.  Your RO system is now back in service.

                    CHANGING THE IN-LINE DISPOSABLE FILTER

The in-line disposable filter should be replaced once a year when the pre and post filter cartridges are changed. Remove the tubes from the fittings at each end of the filter, and then unscrew the fittings from the filter. Replace the Teflon tape on the threads of the fittings. Screw the fittings into the new filter, ensure the direction of flow is correct. Re-insert the tubing into the fittings.

Disconnect the line from the elbow on the cap of the RO membrane housing. Using a large wrench, pair of channel locks, or some other similar tool, unscrew the cap from the membrane housing.

Step 2: Remove old membrane from housing.

Depending on the membrane installed in your system, you will see a pipe protruding from the end of the membrane. Also, note how far in the membrane actually is for reference when inserting the new one. If you see a short pipe grab onto it with a pair of pliers and pull the membrane out of the housing. If you see threads, get a standard “carriage bolt" (of sufficient length to hold onto to) and screw it onto the membrane far enough to get a solid hold. Pull the membrane out.You may feel some resistance as the membrane comes unseated from the housing.Throw out the old membrane.

Step 3: Wash your hands and the surfaces of the tools used to extract the old membrane before going onto step 4.

Anything you can do to minimize bacterial contamination of the system will help maintain trouble-free performance.

Step 4: Wash and sterilize membrane housing.

Empty any water left in the housing and wash it. Then sterilize it by filling the housing with water to which a capful of hydrogen peroxide has been added. Wait ten minutes then empty. Do not rinse the membrane housing.

Step 5: Insert the new membrane into the housing.

Open the sealed bag the RO membrane comes in with the side to be inserted up. Grasp the membrane by the bag surrounding it and hold it up to the mouth of the membrane housing. Slide the membrane out of the bag and into the housing. Using the pliers or the “bolt used to extract the old membrane, push the membrane in until it seats in the membrane housing securely. Gently rock the membrane back and forth while pushing if necessary to seat the membrane properly.  NOTE: It is of utmost importance the membrane seats securely, otherwise the sealed space between reject water and product water is seriously compromised, resulting in little difference in TDS count in raw water and water coming from the faucet.

Step 6: Screw the membrane housing cap back into place and tighten securely.

Step 7: Re-insert tubing into elbow on the membrane housing cap.

If you hear the RO "gurgling" while it makes water this is normal. They seem to do more of that when they are brand new until the bladder gets properly stretched.

Below are pictures of a 4 Stage RO: